Turbo timer installation - VW 2000 GTI, Jetta, New Beetle 1.8T

Directions for wiring turbo timer to work with your stock VW alarm/remote. This will work on GTi, Golf, Jettas and should work on a New Beetle, Passat is slightly different though. Use this faq at your own risk. No guarantees are given or implied, all standard disclaimers.... If you don't know what you are doing, take this to a professional!

Turbo Timer installed in the dash


  • (1) 12V Relay, standard 4 post (a pilot driving light relay from any automotive store works well and is usually found for under $5.00)
  • (3) wire taps, (Calterm p/n 69360 found at checker/shucks/kragen)
  • (4) insulated female blade connectors (to attach to relay, get insulated ones so they don't short under aggressive driving)
  • (1) ring end to fit over post on auxillary power supply by pedals
  • (5) or so butt connectors
  • 1 or 2 ring ends to fit dash screws to connect grounds
  • 5 or so feet 16 gauge wire
  • In this example, we used a Blitz Dual Turbo Timer


  1. Disconnect the (-) terminal of the battery and DO NOT power up until the turbo timer has been completely installed.
  2. Remove the black plastic cover between the steering column and the cluster by pulling up and out.
  3. Remove the lower black plastic cover over the pedals, starting with the right panel, then the left.
  4. Remove the left side cover for the dash. Not just the fuse door but the whole side, just pull it, it will come out.
  5. Unscrew the fuse panel on the left side and wiggle it till you can get it out some and take the cover off the back.
  6. Place the timer where you want it and run the wires for the ignition towards the steering column, if you have a wire for accessory on your turbo timer, don't worry about it, it is not needed. On my install, I had to move the defrost switch. Not too hard, you just have to have small strong fingers.
  7. There are 2 wires for the ignition on MK4s, both have to be connected to work. These wires are the larger like 10 gauge wires on the back of the ignition swith. one is black with red stripe the other is all black.
  8. Connect the ignition signal from the timer to both these wires with the wire taps. (Actually I recommend using solder for these connection due to the thickness of the wires)
  9. Connect a suitable ground for the timer. Any structural metal brackets on the dash are suitable grounds for this sort of thing.
  10. Go back to the fuse panel and look at the wires that go to fuse #6
  11. On one side of the fuse there should be a wire with a black w/ purple stripe. Cut this wire a few inches from the fuse panel
  12. Get the relay, on the back there should be 4 marked posts (sometimes on the side of the relay). If there are 5 posts, don't use the middle one, that will do the opposite and your windows and stuff won't work unless the car is off.
  13. Relay mapping:

    terminals are as follows:

    (30) +12V constant (blue/purple from fuse box)

    (85) - ground

    (86) trigger (steering column brown/red wire side)

    (87) output (blue/purple opposite fuse box, the harness side of the cut wire)

  14. Connect the side of the blk/purple wire from the fuse to the 30 (+) terminal on the relay.
  15. Take the other side and attach it to the output side of the relay, termnal 87. If there is an 87A DO NOT USE IT, only 87!!
  16. Connect a ground for the relay at terminal 85 on the relay to a similar location as the timer, if you can use the same all the better. I used a wire tap at the common ground above the foot pedal
  17. Go back to the steering column and there is a brown wire with red stripe. Use a wire tap and run a wire to the trigger (86) on the relay. That br/red wire is the signal to tell the car the key is installed. What the relay does is trick the car to only turn on the comfort control module, which controls the windows, sunroof, alarm and other things, when the key is installed. If you look into the key hole you will see a little tab that pushes in when you insert the key that is the switch for this. So basically with the key in the car operates like normal, now when you take it out, the comfort control module thinks that the car is off since it no longer gets an ignition signal it gets a key in signal. You will not be able to close your windows and sunroof once the key is out you will have to put it back in to do it or use the key in door method.
  18. The final connecion is power to the timer. Take the (+) for the timer and run it down to the power supply terminals by the pedals.
  19. You now have a few options for the kill wire. Turbo timers have a brake light swtich, while others have a speed signal, and some have both. The Blitz timer I have has both. I only use the brake one right now but will be installing up the speed one eventually. To hook up the brake signal wire take out the center console and hook up that wire to one of the wires for the hand brake warning light. When the brake is lowered with the car running the timer will now shut off. You can skip this step but this will mean that as long as you can keep adding time you can keep driving the car around. I do not have the speed signal wire on me at this time, sorry.
  20. Install a ring end on this wire and loosen the nut numbered 30 on that panel. If that is not the right number just check with a test light to see which one is on all the time.
  21. Test it out and then put the car back together and have fun.
  22. Also if anyone wants to add sensors to their stock alarm you can do this by tapping one wire if you have a gound signal type sensor, which most are. On the comfort control module there are 2 connectors one is a 15 pin connector, on this connector wire 1 is again a brown and red wire, tap tis wire like you did all the others and you can run the signal wire from any sensor and it will trip the alarm. all it does is make the car think the hood was opened. Very simple and it does work. add this with an extra LED and better siren and you will have the features of a 500 alarm for less then 50 bucks and retain the stock remote.

    Boost Gauge Hookup

    • Look at the firewall from the engine compartment about center and to the right a bit, there is a stock grommet that is not used. Remove this grommet and punch a hole in it the diameter of the hose to the boost gauge (dual turbo timer in this case)
    • Run the hose from the gauge through this grommet and remount the grommet in the firewall.
    • Use some silicone adhesive to seal gaps in the grommet, otherwise rain can get in and get your feet all wet!
    • Set the hose aside
    • Remove the front trim piece for the engine (smaller black piece in front of the intake.
    • On the driver's side of the intake on the bottom, there is a vacuum hose that runs to the FPR (fuel pressure regulator). We'll tap this hose to get boost/vacuum to the gauge.
    • Cut the hose approximately in half. We will attach the included T piece here. Use twist ties or micro clamps to secure the hose ends to the T piece. Be gentle, the plastic T piece can break if you handle it wrong.
    • Attach the hose from the gauge to the T piece. Trim as necessary to eliminate extra hose.
    • Use some zip ties to secure the gauge hose, and replace the front trim piece.
    • Double check all your fittings, then start the car.
    • Listen/check for leaks. You won't get a boost reading unless you are driving the car under boost. Revving while stopped will not create positive boost!

    The Blitz Dual Turbo Timer has a boost gauge built in, so no pillar mounts are necessary. I used to think the auto timer was very short. After monitoring egt's and using an infra-red, the temps are usually ok for the normal 10 sec countdown. It's when the time gets into the full minute or up 5 minutes that you think... wow, did I drive that hard? Good thing I can just walk away knowing my car is cooling down.

    You can also find the Audiworld FAQ here, there are some differences with the Audi FAQ though!

    wajazn says naivexpertise

Posted in | Submitted by deviantspeed on Fri, 2006-11-17 15:27.
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